Here is in "PART"  Our Guide about Puppy Care

~ Please note that every breeder has their own ideas, and others may differ.  This is not to say any different advice will be incorrect ONLY different

This page is constantly under construction

Dianne Gunn-Scarcella

October, 2006

OUR PUPPY BUYERS RECEIVE A FULL PUPPY PACK OF INFORMATION

***OUR PUPPY BUYERS WILL BE OFFERED 6 WEEKS FREE PET INSURANCE WITH PET PLAN***

INTESTINAL WORMING:

• When you collect your new puppy, he/she will have been wormed at least six times with a puppy worming preparation.

• You will need to worm again at 10 and then 12 weeks.

• From then on, depending on your choice of worming preparation and diet, be guided by your own experience or your Veterinarian’s advice.

• There is currently many worming preparations on the market, so get one that suites your lifestyle and most importantly your “wallet”... the most expensive is not always the most efficient.

HEART WORMING – PLEASE DO NOT CONFUSE WITH INTESTINAL WORMS:

HEART WORM IS A KILLER OF DOGS AND IS IN ALL AREAS OF AUSTRALIA…..DO NOT BE LULLED BY INACCURATE INFORMATION.

• Your puppy will have commenced daily heart worm medication when you pick him/her up. A product called D.E.C. Tabs [ Diethylcarbamazine Citrate 200mg. Tabs]

Dosage is daily at the following doses ….. 5.5mg/kg body weight

1. ¼ tablet for 3kg. to 9 kg. BW

2. ½ tablet for 9kg. to 18kg. BW

3. 1 tablet for 18kg. to 36kg. BW

• You may decide to give one of the various other preventative regimes that are available today, this is your choice BUT DO NOT STOP the treatment for any reason. Changing between regimes is easily done; monthly tablets {Heart Guard} can be commenced at the same time as you have given the last dose of D.E.C.

• PLEASE CHOOSE CAREFULLY and be vigilant with this treatment.

• There is also a yearly inoculation that is given with the other yearly inoculations. WE HOWEVER DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS CHOICE. There have been many dogs react badly to this preparation, and in our opinion, not enough proof of effectiveness.

• The yearly inoculation is also very expensive when compared to the other options.

INOCULATIONS:

Parvovirus ~ Distemper ~Hepatitis ~ Kennel Cough

• At 6 weeks your puppy will have had the first “temporary” inoculation, this must be followed by another at 12 weeks.

• Depending on the type of drug used, a third may be required at 16 weeks.

• After this a yearly “booster” is recommended.

• There has been a lot of discussion recently regarding the necessity for annual boosters after the first yearly one. At this point Veterinarians world wide are still divided over results and the need for annual boosters for life time of dogs. It appears that most Vets. In Australia at least are still recommending yearly boosters for life
  
  

IDENTIFICATION:

• We strongly suggest you have your puppy identified with a MICROCHIP. We use Iso/Trovan Chips. Others are available and it will depend on where you are and which your vet uses.

• In N.S.W. micro chipping is mandatory, other states please confirm with your councils

• The Victorian State Government has advised of new legislation that requires all dogs to be micro chipped from 1st May 2006. The Act will require that Councils only accept new registrations of dogs if they are micro chipped and it is a requirement that all re registered dogs must be micro chipped.
•  V.C.A. members, when they sell a dog, are not required to microchip the dog. It is the responsibility of the purchaser to microchip the dog.
•  Members of the V.C.A. are encouraged to advise purchasers of the requirement to microchip a dog and to point out that dogs can be micro chipped for $20 at Council pet days and the listed micro chipping days on the V.C.A. calendar.

  REGISTRATIONS:

•        You will have to register your puppy with the Local Council you live in once he/she reaches three/six months of age.
• **check this age with your own Local Council**

• TAS, NSW - All dogs over the age of 6 months must be registered.
  
  WA, SA, QLD, VIC - All dogs over 3mths of age must be registered.
  
  ACT - All dogs over 8 weeks of age (unless the dog is being kept for less than 4 weeks)
  
  
  ·         Please do not confuse the VICTORIAN CANINE COUNCIL INC. with the local council’s requirements.
  ·         Your pup will be registered with the V.C.A.Inc. either on the “Main Breed” or the “Limited Register”, in the name and ownership of the Breeder.  This is a family tree, showing a three generation pedigree [we will also give you an extended pedigree of our own.]
  ·         If you wish to join the V.C.A.Inc., or the controlling body in your State you can do so by filling out the appropriate paperwork [ available from most websites of these controls – search from the V.C.A Inc. site, http://www.vca.org.au  ~  or Google Australia ] and at the same time fill out the back of your puppy’s registration certificate. Then send the required amount to the Control.
  ·         If you are already a member then naturally all you do is send off the registration certificate.
  ·         If you wish to take part in Sanctioned V.C.A. [or other] competitions you MUST be a member of your state’s control.
  ·         If however you only wish to take your pup to a training school you only need to pay their fees. 
•      If your puppy is on the LIMITED REGISTER this means it can not be shown in the Breed Rings or bred from, they can however be Trialed in the Obedience Rings, Agility, Tracking and gain all the titles available to Main Breed Registered Dogs
   

TRAINING:

• We recommend Obedience Training for all new pups and their owners.

• Obedience Classes are available in most areas – we can help you find one if you cannot.

• It is not necessary to wait until pup is old enough for the “outside” classes or to go to Obedience Schools. Training starts at home from day 1.

• Most Veterinary Practises have Puppy Classes and some are lucky enough to have their own Instructor’s, hopefully Canine Good Citizen [C.G.C.] Trainers.

• If you choose Positive Reinforcement training. The Delta Society...CGC trainers are the way to go.

**See DELTA SOCIETY at bottom of guide**

• Allow puppy to overcome the trauma of separation from the familiar surroundings and noises of “mum, litter mates and the two legged family” they have grown up with over their first weeks of life. Also the change in diet and routine may mean they could go off their food for a couple of days.

• Training begins from day 1, and as any parent will tell you, the bad habits are easier learned than the good, so start off with what you expect, GENTLY BUT FIRMLY. Lots of praise and encouragement.

• For example:

1. get pup to sit for the food bowl, lots of praise and then food when they do

2. A soft collar on for short periods at a time, never leave it on when you are not in attendance – this will start your lead training.

3. Get pup to sit and or lay down for the regular brushing sessions, this is a great tool for developing your bond.

- PUPPY TEETH AND EARS –

Are at sixes and sevens during the first few months of life, and just like human babies, this is a painful experience and some suffer more than others. Teeth and gums become swollen and may bleed, and the ears will be hot and go “up and down”. During this time they will object to being handled around the head and neck, may go off the normal food, and likely to chew everything in sight. Do not punish this, but give them something to chew on just like a baby’s teething ring – a big woody carrot, brisket bone or pig’s ears.

Be very gentle with any collar and lead at this stage.

- LEAD TRAINING –

1. Start slowly with a soft fabric collar – only while you are with them and for short periods of time – as they may hurt themselves if left alone, as they will probably want to get it off to start with. GIVE PLENTY OF REASSURANCE AND PRAISE DURING THIS TIME.

2. Once they get used to the soft collar you may start attaching a lead to the collar, letting the pup drag this around, but only in your presence, start picking the lead up and walking with them. Occasionally to start with stop and let a LIGHT TUG happen, this is the start of your lead training. NEVER MAKE IT HARSH OR UNPLEASANT AS THEY WILL FIGHT THE LEAD IN THE FUTURE, this lead will be the sign of “walks and fun” in the future.

3. Never use a chain lead, these are hard on your hands and annoying to the pup with all that noise near their ears.

4. Once puppy is collar trained you may [IF YOU WISH] progress to a check chain. If not familiar with this find an experienced “dog person” to show you how to put on, there is a right and wrong way.

REMEMBER ALL TRAINING AIDES MUST BE USED CORRECTLY.  ANY ONE OF THEM CAN BE MISUSED IF NOT SHOWN HOW TO CORRECTLY USE THEM.

REMEMBER BE CAREFUL WHILE PUP IS TEETHING

THIS DEVICE IS A TRAINING AIDE NOT TO BE LEFT ON WHILE YOU ARE NOT IN ATTENDANCE. THEY ARE NOT FOR TETHERING OR PLACING I.D. Tags ON.

IT IS NOT A CHOCKER

REMEMBER:

• Give puppy time to adjust to his new surroundings, they may cry a lot and have “accidents” until they realise what is in and out for the toilet. Remember if they have an accident it is usually your fault, they have given signs but you have missed them.

• Take puppy to the desired place to relieve themselves directly after feeding, after waking up, before putting to bed. When they have done their toilet, PRAISE AND PATS. We also use words to “tell them to the toilet” Don’t worry about what the rellie’s or friend’s think. You are now a “dog” person, with all new vocabulary.

• Make puppy sit in front of you for their food.

• Start your relationship gently and firmly, bad habits are remembered just as easily as good ones…just ask any parent that question.

• Use the same commands each time for the one action, and make them short and precise. Use the puppy’s name first if you wish.

For example: SIT or ANA SIT -

STAY or STAY ANA -

• One person initially would be the ideal to start training, and then other members of the house can learn from them.

• Groom puppy every day if possible – this develops a bond, is a good training “tool” and promotes healthy coat and skin. Also has a calming effect on both you and pup. Always use a good quality brush [soft], and a comb – not those “wire jobs” so popular in supermarkets and pet shops.

• Pups should have safe toys to play with, a good ‘toy’ to start with are “PET BOTTLES” with the top and ring lock removed -squish them in the middle so pup can pick them up. Also old “footy” socks tied in the middle. Make sure the pup learns what is theirs and what is yours, you leave something lying around and it will be chewed. JUST YOU WAIT AND SEE.

• Puppy bed should be his/her own personal space – a nice quiet area, draught free with bed and comforter of some sort, something with a familiar scent on it is good. If an indoor dog somewhere near the family, if not to be indoors, then a warm, draught free kennel or area on the veranda out of the weather with bedding and comforters.

• Bet the bedroom will win!!!!!!

• If you have another dog, training will be easier, as they will learn from them, but remember to supervise the play and don’t make too much fuss of the new pup and make the oldie feel neglected – equal time for both.

SOCIALISING:

• Introduce pup to family and friends and other animals, but initially in the pup’s territory and at their own pace, don’t let the pup be rushed or overwhelmed.

• LET PUP MAKE ALL THE ADVANCES.

• Socialising before their 2^nd. Inoculation should be done with care – be thoughtful where you take pup. If going into unknown areas, it maybe wise to carry them.

• BUT it is important to get them socialised during those first 20 weeks – Puppy classes at Vets is a good place to start.
  

NOTES OF INTEREST:

• Prevent fleas before they start – we use a mild dusting powder on pups to start with – once they get older there are many preparations to choose from – be guided by your experience or your Vet.. Remember again not always the most expensive is the best.

• Bathing as needed, we use MARTHA GARDINER’S WOOL MIX with pups. When bathing make sure they are dried off thoroughly, not left to stay outside in the cold wet or damp. A good brushing or a swim in fresh running water is sometimes better than “bubbles”.

• If your pup is inside during the winter months in front of the fire or heating…… don’t put him out in the cold when you go off to a warm bed, dogs do chill and particularly young pups.

• THE GERMAN SHEPHERD DOG is a “SHEPHERDING” dog, bred to herd sheep and care for the “Sheepherder”. He needs plenty of interaction with you and the “flock” [the family] as you are his charges. Don’t leave them locked away from the family or chained up for long periods of time, they will become very traumatised and that is when your problems will start.

• Exercise and Training is a must for the G.S.D. they are quick and eager learners. But they are adaptable, and can just as easily become your couch potato if that is what you are, as long as they are with you and or the flock they are contented.
  

~~PLEASE DO NOT~~

• Change puppy’s diet suddenly – by doing so you may cause diarrhoea or complete rejection of food – remembering that they may not eat well for the first day or two from distress, and while teething they may refuse food. Change diet gradually if you intend to.

• Letting children or anybody for that matter over tire or annoy puppy when it comes to the new home. When it wants to sleep let it, when it is eating LEAVE IT ALONE, - training to take food from your dog comes later [ and definitely should not be done by children ] and is a necessary tool, especially if it is eating something it shouldn’t.

• Leave an illness unattended – puppy’s can and will dehydrate very quickly and become extremely ill. If “minor”, we may be able to assist, if you cannot get us or it is serious go straight to your Vet
  

FOOD and GENERAL REQUIREMENTS YOU MAY NEED OR CHOOSE FROM:

**Our full diet is available to our Puppy Families prior to taking charge of their new puppy**

• CALCIUM SUPPLEMENT  - PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH THIS SUPPLEMENT, AS TOO MUCH CAN BE AS DETRIMENTAL AS NOT ENOUGH.  A GOOD QUALITY AND WELL BALANCED PUUPY DIET MAY NOT REQUIRE CALCIUM SUPPLEMENT. IF IN DOUBT PLEASE CONSULT WITH YOUR VET.

• HEART WORM MEDICATION

• INTESTINAL WORMING PREPARATION
  

MEATS:

• GOOD QUALITY MINCE – [chicken or red meat] – WITHOUT PRESERVATIVES.

• LIVER / CHICKEN LIVERS / KIDNEY / HEARTS / GREEN TRIPE [YUK but the dogs love it]

• CHICKEN WINGS – RAW [high in calcium]

• LAMB FLAPS

• BRISKET BONES and MARROW BONES – RAW

OTHER FOODS:

• GOOD QUALITY DRY PUPPY PELLETS – WITHOUT FOOD COLOURING WE USE PAL PUPPY.

• BISCUITS – FARRELS OR OTHER

• PIGS EARS [if you can get them] - good for teething rings

• VEGEMITE [YUK]

• HONEY

• FLAXSEED or CORN OIL

• RICE AND/OR PASTA – COOKED NATURALLY

• FRUIT AND VEGES. – Made into a stew with meat and pasta – or raw DO NOT FEED CORN COBS OR ONIONS.

• MILK OR MILK REPLACEMENT

• LOTS OF FRESH COOL CLEAN WATER – AVAILABLE AT ALL TIMES DURING THE DAY AND AT ALL TIMES DURING VERY HOT WEATHER.

• *****YOU MAY CHOOSE TO FEED A TOTALLY NATURAL DIET WHEN PUPPY HAS GROWN – IF SO BE SURE YOU HAVE THE BEST INFORMATION AVAILABLE ON THIS SUBJECT*****
  

OUR PREFERENCE IS TO SOAK DRY FOOD IN WARM BROTH OR WATER FOR A SHORT TIME TO BRING OUT FLAVOUR AND MINIMISE RISK OF “BLOAT”.

PLEASE REMEMBER:

• IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS OR QUERIES, PLEASE CONTACT US FIRST AND DISCUSS THESE.

• WE ARE ALWAYS HAPPY TO ASSIST YOU IN ALL MATTERS.

• URGENT OR EMERGENCY SITUATIONS TO A VET. A.S.A.P.

• DO NOT FORGET THE HEARTWORM MEDICATION, A FAILURE TO KEEP THE ROUTINE UP WILL COST YOU IN THE LONG RUN [ AND THE DOG ] if you forget the medication seek advice from us or your Vet.

“A DOG WILL LOVE YOU FOR YOURSELF, AND WILL SIT WITH YOU RICH OR POOR – EVEN WHEN YOU HAVE NOTHING BUT LOVE TO GIVE.”

DELTA SOCIETY AUSTRALIA’S CANINE GOOD CITIZEN [TM] PROGRAM:

Why you should choose A Delta Society Australia Canine Good Citizen

“Whole Way of Life”

Dog Training Program?

• The canine Good Citizen program caters for the special needs of the Companion Dog and his owner to help them live harmoniously within the home and the wider community

The programs include five levels of training which provides appropriate training for dogs of all ages and levels

1. DELTA PUPPY

2. DELTA BASICS

3. DELTA TEEN

4. DELTA CGC

5. DELTA MASTERS

• The program is both an education and training service for dogs and their owners and also provides help in solving common behavioural problems

• ..eg:… house training...pulling on the lead…not coming when called…digging…roaming…barking…jumping up and destructive behaviour

• The Obedience Training component uses only humane training equipment, positive reinforcement training methods and is simple, easy to follow and has extremely high success rate.

Why should you choose a Canine Good Citizen Instructor?

• Canine Good Citizen Instructors are highly trained and are THE ONLY NATIONALLY ACCREDITED DOG TRAINERS IN AUSTRALIA

• DELTA Society Australia’s Instructors Course is a Certificate 1V in Dog Training Behavioural Training and is the only Certificate Level Pet Dog Training Course in Australia accredited within the Australian Quality training framework

• Canine Good Citizen Instructors operate in all States and Territories of Australia

• Bound by a strict Code of Ethics, CGC Instructors are united in their training methods and philosophy to use humans, positive reinforcement training techniques to produce informed, competent, caring owners with well socialised, well behaved dogs - GOOD CITIZENS BOTH ENDS OF THE LEASH

YOUR GUARANTEE:

• Highly trained Instructors

• Modern, scientifically proven and reward based training methods.

• Modern humane training equipment

• A proven pet dog-training program structured to suite all ages of dogs

• A fun and positive experience for both you and your dog.

CHECK FOR YOUR NEAREST CANINE GOOD CITIZEN INSTRUCTOR:

http://www.deltasocietyaustralia.com.au

http://www.ovensvalleycanineclub.com

All content copyright © 2008